Last Saturday we traveled back to Suwon (about 1 hour south of Seoul by subway) where we'd been before to go to the Korean Folk Village. This time our destination was the 200 year old fortress of Hwaseong which is located in downtown Suwon. Unlike the wall that surrounded ancient Seoul, the Hwaseong fortress wall, gates and other structures are mostly still standing. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And for good reason, as we discovered and as the photos here hopefully show.
Once we arrived at Suwon, the Travel Info Office told us which city bus we should take to go to the fortress (actually they gave us a piece of paper with bus numbers and our destination written in Korean). It was a short and cheap (less than a dollar) bus ride to Paldalmun Gate, the large southern gate of the fortress. This gate is entirely surrounded by the city. Here are pictures of the girls fresh off the bus in front of a pedestrain shopping mall (we picked up a baguette for lunch at the Crown Bakery in the background) and of Paldalmun Gate itself.
Within the fortress walls is Haenggung (or Haeng Palace), built in the late 18th century by King Jeongjo. The palace has been wonderfully restored and there are a variety of activities and performances programmed there every weekend. Here are the main gates and Deb showing her skill in a traditional arrow toss game called tuho (she missed but was close).
The architecture of the palace building is beautiful. Fun to photograph. The building in the below right photo is the main hall of the palace. Here the King would receive visitors, like in the recreated scene below. Note the stacks of food being presented as gifts to the King.
After we wondered around Haenggung for a while we climbed the hill behind it, up to the main fortress wall. As we climbed our view of the city got better and better and we got more tired...luckily there was a place selling ice cream poposicles near the top.
Within the fortress walls is Haenggung (or Haeng Palace), built in the late 18th century by King Jeongjo. The palace has been wonderfully restored and there are a variety of activities and performances programmed there every weekend. Here are the main gates and Deb showing her skill in a traditional arrow toss game called tuho (she missed but was close).
The architecture of the palace building is beautiful. Fun to photograph. The building in the below right photo is the main hall of the palace. Here the King would receive visitors, like in the recreated scene below. Note the stacks of food being presented as gifts to the King.
After we wondered around Haenggung for a while we climbed the hill behind it, up to the main fortress wall. As we climbed our view of the city got better and better and we got more tired...luckily there was a place selling ice cream poposicles near the top.
Here (below) we are in front of a big stone sign that commemorates the UNESCO designation of the Hwaseong Fortress. Also near the top of the hill is the Bell of Hyowon. For 1,000 won (about $1) we got to ring it 3 times: the first ring is for your parents, second for your family and the third for your own wishes. Here Jin and Lili are standing in front of the bell ringer, a log sized piece of wood hanging from the ceiling.
At the very top of the hill is Seojangdae the western cammand post and Seonodae, the multiple-arrow-launcher platform. Note the slots are shaped for cross-bows. Lili seems surprised to see familiar faces up on the platform.
View of city from hilltop. View of city and an observation post along the wall.
Further along the wall to the north we came to Hwaseomun (west) Gate. It has a neat curved wall in front of the gate and a multi-storey watchtower called Seobuk Gongsimdon.
Further along the wall to the north we came to Hwaseomun (west) Gate. It has a neat curved wall in front of the gate and a multi-storey watchtower called Seobuk Gongsimdon.
Along the wall at regular intervals are observation posts that jut out from the main wall. Here our young soldier stands guard at the entrance to such an observation post.
Slots and holes in the wall designed for shooting or observing the enemy now provide interesting photo-ops out over the bustling modern city of Suwon.
Here our Korean soldier lines up a cannon shot to stop the invading hordes. And here are some "hordes" more interested in playing Go (or baduk as it is called here) than storming the fortress.
Bye for now,
Slots and holes in the wall designed for shooting or observing the enemy now provide interesting photo-ops out over the bustling modern city of Suwon.
The northern gate, Jangamun (bottom left), is the largest gate in the fortress. Nearby Hwahongmun (or Buksumun) is the northern water gate over the Suwon River.
Close to Hwahongmun is a famous restaurant called Yeonpo Galbi. It is located under the tall yellow banner in the below left photo. It is famous for serving wanggalbi, large beef ribs BBQ's right at your table, with all the Korean extras. Here Deb checks the galbi on the grill. As you can see we are sitting at a traditional low table. These are novel to try, but after while I wished I would have chosen a regular chair. Maybe it had something to do with the amount of galbi I ate....
It was a long sunny day, and long walk around the fortress and palace. After a big galbi dinner we settled climbed aboard the subway for a long sleepy ride back to home in Seoul. We loved the trip to Hwaseong Fortress. We didn't get to see the east section this time, so maybe we'll get back to Suwon again to walk the wall and eat more wanggalbi. Mmmmmm...
Here is a good website that explains (better than I did here) about Hwaseong Fortress:
Bye for now,
Derek, Deb, Jin and Lili
p.s. This weekend some friends are coming to Korea on a Motherland Tour (like we did in 2007). We look forward to seeing them sometime during their visit. They are going to have a great trip. Safe travels folks! See you soon.
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